we all reuse

It's a bit indelicate to mention this, but it's really important when sourcing vintage fabrics and materials - other people have worn these clothes, and chances are they've not been washed since.

Check for

• moth holes, moth eggs (whitish tiny pearl like things, often seen with the cigar shaped husks of the already hatched wrigglers)

• fleas, lice or their eggs along seams.

• staining and bleaching under the arms and in the crotch as these never come out - light powdery deodorant marks will sometimes shift, but not only if the fabric has not gone stiff. You may be able to use other parts of the garment though.

• Stains or oily traces on collars and cuffs - these will smell of the previous wearer when you wear the garment and are very hard to remove. Again, you may be able to use other parts of the garment.

• mildew - stale, musty smelling white marks - can sometimes be removed by washing or carefully wiping with weak disinfectant solution.

When buying vintage, use your eyes and most importantly your nose. Wherever possible wash the items thoroughly, even if it's by hand.

For more delicate textiles and lace and feathers , dry cleaning and 30 seconds of microwaving (with all metal removed) will also kill most bugs.

Remember valuable antique textiles should not be cleaned with anything other that a light brushing or shaking.

Do you have any special tips for cleaning?